Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Bolivia.

Since I´ve last posted I went on a three day tour through the Salar de Uyuni, stayed a night in the town of Uyuni, spent a few days in Potosi, and now I am in Sucre.

My trip so far in Bolivia has felt like an upside down bell curve. It went from "ohmygodfantastic" to "eh," to "I´d pay anything to be teleported out of this place," to "mehh?", to "ohmygodfantastic" again.

This country is beautiful beyond words, and that´s where I started.

See???



And look at this!!


Amazing, huh??



And ohmygodfantastic can you even believe this???



Okay, maybe you had to be there. Regardless, the tour of the salt flat and nearby lagunas was a high point of my trip so far. That region must be one of the most naturally beautiful places on earth. Just. Stunning.

It was cold, though. I spent a night in Uyuni and bought so much woolen gear that I almost couldn´t shut my suitcase by the time I was leaving. Uyuni has a great outdoor market that sells everything from fried fish to motorcycles. Lots and lots of knit stuff too. It´s also the cheapest market that I´ve been to so far... and Bolivia is really really cheap.

Potisi was lovely. It reminded me of Valpariaso a lot.

See???



And look at this?!?



And this??


There are lots of churches...



Soooo Valpo, huh?

I´m actually 100% sure that this one done by one of the same artists that has painted the streets of Valpo. (All you porteños know what I´m talking about...)

It also incited similar feelings of rage/peace/idealism/frustration/joy/depair in me. Those were a draining few days. Ugh, I think I´ll leave it there for now.

Sucre, where I am now, is so "ohmygodfantastic" that at some moments I think I´ll never leave. It´s a lovely colonial city, and it for some reason, feels very safe and peaceful to me. I´m staying in the most adorable quiet little hostel I have ever seen. My room is well worn for sure, but has amazing vintage accents, like simple yet beautiful plaster cieling mouldings, and 50´s style bedspreads that I will have to use all my restraint to not shove into my suitcase when I leave. I have a little breakfast nook by the window, with a handstitched tablecloth and a set of chrome and brown velor chairs that could easily fetch a few hundred dollars at a vintage store in Brooklyn. It opens into a lovely little courtyard, bursting with rose bushes and all sorts of potted ferns and delicate green vines. And, amazingly, the shared bathroom is clean. All this for under $6 a night. Why am I going back to Seattle again???



All I´ve really done so far, besides enjoy my room to the fullest possible extent, is spend hours wandering the central market. I know that I rave about every market I go to, but believe me, this is a good one.

At one point in this breathtaking maze, the market building opens into a courtyard of potato venders and fruit juice stalls.

Papas.....



Besitos,
Allie

6 comments:

Heather said...

Looks amazing...Sooo, thoughts on getting the yellow fever vaccine?(I do plan to travel a lot)

Get it here in the States before I arrive in Chile to avoid hassles trying to get it in Santiago later? Don't get it?

All I read are conflicting reports everywhere.

Thanks!

Allison Azersky said...

Get the vaccine. They did ask me for proof of the vaccination when they gave me my visa.

That said, I don´t know if it´s better to get it in the US or Chile. It cost about $45 in Chile, which is probably much less than in the US. If you have connections to a doctor that could write you a script in Chile, I´d say do it here! If tracking down the needed paperwork gives you too much of a headache, do it before you go!

Just so you know, I´ve seen a whole 2 mosquitos during my time so far in Bolivia. They made me really excited, as I feel that they are proof that I didn´t go through all that hassle in vain.

Unknown said...

I've always wanted to go there.... Evo Morales was on Democracy Now the other day... being really sexy and talking revolutoin... have you read Indian Givers? It's about the Potosi silver mines... a must-read. I love you. Top notch pics, too, btw.

Unknown said...

revolution. yeah.

Allison Azersky said...

Laura!! That book sounds great. I looked for it in Spanish today, but I wasn´t sure exactly what the the title would be... or even if it was writen in Spanish... anyhoo, I´ll find it someday! Sounds great!

Revolution... Democracy Now! Love it!!

Heather said...

Thanks Allie! Looks like you are having an amazing trip.